EXPLORING GLOBAL FLAVORS IN SUGINAMI (New! 3/24)

A Series of Interviews with Foreign Restaurateurs
[published March 2025]

Tokyo is home to a diverse and vibrant culinary scene, with restaurants offering authentic flavors from around the world. In this series, we interview foreign chefs and restaurateurs who have brought the tastes of their homelands to the 4 distinct neighborhoods of Suginami, Tokyo. They share their stories, challenges, and passion for food—from Vietnamese pho in Koenji and Nepalese Newari cuisine in Asagaya to Spanish paella in Ogikubo and Filipino home cooking in Nishi-Ogikubo. These four are enriching the local dining landscape while bridging cultures through cuisine.

 

Discovering Authentic Vietnamese Flavors in Koenji

An Interview with Sy Nguyen Tien from Chopsticks

Chopsticks brings the comforting flavors of northern Vietnam to Dai-Ichi Ichiba food court in the heart of Koenji, offering an authentic yet approachable dining experience. Known for its delicate, aromatic pho and fresh, handmade rice noodles, Sy and the Chopsticks staff take pride in using high-quality ingredients that highlight the essence of Vietnamese cuisine.

Sy’s Recommended Dish: Steamed Chicken and Tomato Pho



Experience Suginami Tokyo: How long have you been in Japan, and how did you get started at Chopsticks?

Sy: I came to Japan in 2016 as an exchange student for two years, then studied at culinary school for another two. I’ve been working at Chopsticks for about two years now, handling everything from cooking to customer service and restaurant management.

EST: What brought you to Japan, and what was your first impression?

Sy: I grew up loving Japanese anime and manga, so studying abroad here was a dream. At first, I found Japanese people a bit distant—it was hard to make friends. In Vietnam, you spend a lot of time with family, but as a student here, I was often alone. Now, I’m used to life in Japan and enjoy it.

EST: What makes Vietnamese food appealing to Japanese and other customers?

Sy: At Chopsticks, we use fresh raw noodles made from Japanese rice, while many other Vietnamese restaurants use dried noodles. Our broth is also lighter, which suits the Japanese palate. In Vietnam, flavors vary by region—northern dishes are milder, central ones are spicy, and southern ones are sweeter. Chopsticks follows the northern style.

EST: How does Vietnamese food in Japan differ from back home?

Sy: In Vietnam, pho broth is made with both chicken and beef bones, but here we mainly use chicken. The noodles have a chewier texture because of the difference between Vietnamese and Japanese rice. Also, Vietnamese pho typically includes more types of vegetables, and our fish sauce has a distinct taste compared to the ones available in Japan.

EST: What’s your personal favorite Vietnamese dish?

Sy: I’m from central Vietnam, near Hue, where the food is spicier, so my favorite is bun bo Hue, a spicy roast beef noodle dish. But since Chopsticks specializes in northern-style pho, I recommend our steamed chicken and tomato pho.

EST: What’s one thing about Vietnamese culture you wish more people in Japan knew?

Sy: Just like Japan has kimono, Vietnam has the "ao dai." It’s a stylish traditional outfit for both men and women, but not many people know about it here.

EST: Any memorable experiences while working at Chopsticks?

Sy: One time, a little child—maybe three or four years old—gave me a drawing. I was so surprised and touched! I still have it hanging at home. It’s something I wouldn’t expect in Vietnam, especially from a stranger. It made me appreciate the small kindnesses in Japan.



Thank you for your time, Sy! We hope many people visit Chopsticks to experience authentic Vietnamese flavors in Koenji.

Price:

Steamed Chicken and Tomato Pho ¥850
Address:
3 Chome-22-8 Koenji-kita, Suginami City, Tokyo (Dai-Ichi Ichiba)
Distance from Station:
2 minutes on foot from JR Koenji Station, north exit
Phone:
03-3330-3992
Open:
Weekdays 11:30am – 3:00pm (Last Order 2:0pm), 5:00pm – 10:00pm (Last Order 9:30pm) / Sat, Sun & holidays 11:00 – 10:00pm (Last Order 9:30pm)
Website:
https://namamen.com/koenji/ (external link)
Communication:
Vietnamese, Japanese, English
  • no-smoking

Experiencing Nepalese Newari Cuisine in Asagaya

An Interview with Santosh Duwal from Matina Dining

Matina Dining offers a refined culinary experience in a vibrant, inviting atmosphere. In Tokyo, Suginami City and the Asagaya neighborhood in particular are known for a large population of residents from Nepal. With Santosh at the helm, Matina serves well those residents and anyone interested in the truly authentic tastes of Nepal's Newari style cuisine.

Santosh’s Recommendation: Newari Samaya Baji Set



Experience Suginami Tokyo: How long have you been in Japan, and how did you get started at Matina Dining?

Santosh: I came to Japan in 2017 and have been at Matina Dining for about three years. I started as a cook, but now I’m the manager. I even decorated the restaurant interior myself! Of course, the sakura are a Japanese theme, but the wall decorations are especially from Newari culture, and this curtain (he points to a red curtain) is typical of Nepalese culture.

EST: What brought you to Japan?

Santosh: I came here exactly for this—to share Nepalese cuisine! Japan has been a great place to pursue this passion.

EST: There are many “Indo-Nepal” restaurants in Tokyo, but most of them offer Indian food, even if the staff is from Nepal. What makes Matina Dining so authentic?

Santosh: First of all, here all Indian restaurants are serving nan bread with curry, but we do not eat nan in Nepal. We eat rice at every meal: breakfast, lunch, and dinner. So that’s the biggest difference from Indian food, especially the type you find in Japan. Also, our curry is not gravy-like, but more soup-based.
Thakali and Newari are the two main styles of Nepali cuisine. The mutton pickle is characteristic of Newari style.

EST: Right, Matina specializes in Newari style Nepalese food. What is Newari?

Santosh: It’s a part of Nepalese traditional culture. Newari culture has its own language, beliefs, and is the identity of Nepalese people. So, Newari food is the food tied to the traditions of Newari culture.

EST: What’s your personal favorite Nepalese dish and do you serve something like that here?

Santosh: Yes, my favorite is the Newari Samaya Baji (Set). This includes Chiura (dried rice), Anda (boiled egg), Bodi (mung beans), Mix achar (mixed pickles), Choila (mutton in a spiced dressing), Bara (bean pancake), Machha (small whole fish), Alu (potato), Kalo (black soy beans), Bhatmas (soy beans), Aaduwa (fresh ginger), Alu Tama Soup (bamboo shoots and potato soup), Salad, Bhutan (spiced tripe) and Sag (leafy greens). These are the main Newari foods, eaten at cultural festivals in Newari culture. To me this is the best food of Nepal.

EST: There are many Nepalese people in Suginami. Is there a reason for that? Or is it just a coincidence? What is the connection between Nepal and Suginami?

Santosh: Now there is a Nepalese International School in Suginami (Everest International School), and there are many other incentives such as that which make Suginami great for Nepalese, especially those with families. I also live here with my wife, my son, and I have a new baby as well. And many friends have told me about this place. I think it is the same for other Nepalese people. I heard directly from my older sister that Asagaya was a good place. Suginami is a good place to live, I really like it.

EST: What’s one thing about Nepalese culture that you wish more people in Japan knew?

Santosh: We have a festival called Dashain, which is a Hindu festival in Nepal that celebrates the victory of the goddess Durga over the demon Mahishasura. It’s like a New Year’s festival for Nepalese, but it is celebrated in September or October, depending on the year.
We also hold special festivals of Nepalese art and culture at Matina, where we hold festivities with food, crafts, and traditional dance and for getting a blessing. Please come check them out!



Thank you for your time, Santosh! We hope more people discover the rich flavors of Newari cuisine at Matina Dining in Asagaya.

Price:

Newari Baji Set ¥1500
Address:
2 Chome-16-9 Asagaya-minami, Suginami City, Tokyo (2nd Floor)
Distance from Station:
1 minute on foot from JR Asagaya Station, south exit
Phone:
03-6312-5352
Open:
11:00am – 11:00pm (Last Orders by 10:30pm)
Communication:
Nepali, Japanese, English
  • no-smoking

A Taste of Spain in Ogikubo

An Interview with Felipe Gomez from La Dehesa

La Dehesa is a Spanish-Mediterranean restaurant located just a minute walk from Ogikubo Station in Suginami, Tokyo, where chef Felipe offers a blend of modern Spanish cuisine using seasonal Japanese ingredients. Aside from paella and Spanish tapas, the restaurant also specializes in wine.

Felipe’s Recommended Dish: Paella



Experience Suginami Tokyo: You’ve had an international culinary journey, from Spain to London and now Tokyo. What initially brought you to Japan?

Felipe: When I was living in London after a short stay in Thailand, a friend of mine—another Spanish chef—told me about an opportunity in Japan. He needed a chef for his company, so he asked if I wanted to come. It was a Spanish restaurant in Shinjuku. That was about 13 years ago. Initially, I had no knowledge of Japanese beyond a few words like "sayonara." But the transition was smooth because the company handled my visa and housing, so it was easy to settle in.

EST: La Dehesa is known for incorporating Japanese ingredients into Spanish cuisine. How do you approach this fusion?

Felipe: When you live in a place for a while, you naturally develop a relationship with its food. I love Japanese ingredients and enjoy experimenting with their flavors. Rice, for example, is a great conductor of flavor, which makes it easy to adapt to Spanish cuisine, like paella. My approach is to respect the essence of Spanish cuisine while integrating the depth of Japanese ingredients.

EST: Speaking of paella, it’s one of your most popular dishes. What makes your version special?

Felipe: Japanese people love rice, so paella is a natural favorite here. We prepare it seasonally, and right now, for example, we have monkfish paella, which Japanese customers really enjoy because monkfish is commonly used in Japanese nabe (hot pot). The concept of extracting rich flavors from all parts of the fish is similar in both cuisines. We use that depth of flavor to enhance our paella, which makes it stand out.

EST: Are there any typical Spanish ingredients that are difficult to source in Japan?

Felipe: Most ingredients are accessible, but some require special connections. Iberico ham, for example, isn’t something you’ll find in a regular supermarket. I work with trusted importers to get authentic Spanish products. Cheese is another challenge—import regulations are stricter for soft Spanish cheeses compared to French ones, so I have to rely on specialized suppliers.

EST: What’s one thing about Spanish cuisine you want more people in Japan to experience?

Felipe: Iberico ham is something I’d love for more people to try. It’s one of Spain’s greatest culinary treasures, but it’s not as widely known in Japan. As for dishes, paella is always a favorite, but I personally love tortilla (Spanish omelet), which has been a lifelong favorite of mine.

EST: La Dehesa also offers an extensive selection of Spanish wines. How do you curate your wine list?

Felipe: Wine is a big part of the dining experience here. Many guests come specifically for our Spanish wines, sometimes just for tapas and wine rather than a full meal. We focus on pairing wines with our dishes, selecting bottles that complement the flavors of our seasonal ingredients. The second floor of the restaurant also functions as a wine shop, making it easier for customers to take home what they enjoy.

EST: What challenges did you face when opening your own restaurant in Japan?

Felipe: The biggest challenge was the paperwork and bureaucracy. As a foreigner, setting up a business in Japan involves a lot of procedures, and sometimes it takes longer to get answers or approvals. Having Japanese support is essential to navigating the system efficiently.

EST: Could you tell us about your next plans?

Felipe: I'm planning to open another location, and I’m currently looking at locations in central Tokyo. The idea is to open a tapas bar while continuing to run La Dehesa in Ogikubo. I want people to feel like they’re traveling to Spain when they dine here. It’s not just about the food—it’s about the whole experience. To anyone who would like to try out authentic Spanish food, wine and tapas, I'm looking forward to seeing you!



A big gracias to Chef Felipe Gomez for sharing his story and insights. If you’re in Tokyo and looking for an authentic yet innovative Spanish dining experience, La Dehesa is a must-visit.

Price:

Paella ¥1950/person (from 2 people)
Address:
5 Chome-24-5 Ogikubo, Suginami City, Tokyo
Distance from Station:
1 minute on foot from JR/Tokyo Metro Ogikubo Station, west exit south
Phone:
03-6338-7790
Open:
11:30am – 3:00pm, 5:00pm – 11:00pm, closed Mondays and irregularly for catering, etc.
Website:
https://shop.ladehesa.jp/ (external link)
Communication:
Spanish, Japanese, English
  • no-smoking

A Taste Filipino Home-cooking in Nishi-Ogikubo

Mayumi Takeuchi from Ate on Bringing Authentic Filipino Cuisine to Japan

In the quiet streets of Nishi-Ogikubo, a small Filipino restaurant named Ate has become a beloved spot for authentic home-cooked flavors. The woman behind this culinary gem is Mayumi Takeuchi, a Filipina who has lived in Japan for nearly four decades. Through Ate, she shares her passion for keeping her family’s recipes alive.

Mayumi’s Recommended Dish: Adobong Baboy (Pork Adobo)



Experience Suginami Tokyo: What does “Ate” mean and why did you choose it for the name of the restaurant?

Mayumi: “Ate” (pronounced “ah-tay”) in Filipino language means “sister.” I felt like the sister or mother to my customers serving this food, which is very family-oriented back in the Philippines. I also took care of other Filipinas who looked at me as their mother when they came here.

EST: How long have you been in Japan? Please tell us a bit about the story that brought you here.

Mayumi: When I was younger, around 20 years old, I joined a cultural dance team, and we came here as a group of 10 to perform. That was a 6-month contract, so after that we returned to the Philippines, but we eventually went back a second time, and that’s when I met my current husband, who is Japanese. After 5 years of exchanging letters, we married and from that time I've been here, now 39 years.

EST: When did you establish Ate?

Mayumi: I think I opened Ate around the age of 45, and now I’m 63. In those days I heard many opinions from Japanese people that Filipino food did not taste or smell good and so on, so I took that as a challenge. Another opinion that challenged me was people saying the Filipinas could only get “night work” (working as hostesses and such), but of course that’s not true. Also, of course Chinese, Italian, French cuisine is well known, but not Filipino. My grandparents had a restaurant in the Philippines so I had eaten their food and was familiar with the cooking.

EST: So, does the food also differ by region in the Philippines?

Mayumi: To some extent, but I think the family traditions and recipes are what differ the most, from family to family as opposed to by region. I come from Imus, and my cooking is based on my grandmother's.

EST: And do you adjust the recipes according to Japanese taste?

Mayumi: Many Japanese ask me that. But no, I just use the recipe closest to my family’s as possible. It is very authentic, not Japan-ized. This is how my grandmother would make it. I do adjust the sweetness for desserts, since Japanese people don’t like things that are too sweet, and I also have to adjust the sourness for some dishes, but other than that, it is as close as I can make it.

EST: What are some favorite dishes for people visiting Ate?

Mayumi: The most popular are Adobo and Sinigang. Adobo is a marinated meat dish, and Sinigang is a sour soup dish using tamarind for flavoring. Especially the Adobo, you can only get that specific taste here, it is my grandmother’s recipe. She has passed away, but the recipe has been passed down to me, and I make it in her memory. This is especially true for the pork adobo, Adobong Baboy, and I’m proud to serve it here in Japan. My mother visited and she approved of this way I’m carrying on my grandmother’s legacy.

EST: How did you choose this location in Nishi-Ogikubo for Ate?

Mayumi: I’ve been in Nishi-Ogikubo for the 39 years I’ve been in Japan. So, when I started Ate, I had already been living here. I have two children, twins, and I wanted to work close to home so I could also take care of them. If I were somewhere like Roppongi, I’m sure I could make good business, but it’s not about the money for me. This is my hobby. I wanted to have a restaurant at the same time as looking after my family.

EST: Did you have any difficulties in starting the restaurant? Or was it not too difficult because your husband is Japanese?

Mayumi: No, my husband certainly took care of everything. If I’m happy working here, he will support me. He’s happy if I’m happy. For me, it feels like I won the lottery!



Thank you, Mayumi, for sharing your story! If you’re looking for authentic Filipino flavors in Tokyo, Ate offers a true taste of the Philippines in the heart of Japan.



writer: Joel
photographers: Mark, Greg, I. Fukuyama
planner: Greg

Price:

Pork Adobo ¥1,220
Address:
2 Chome-22-11 Nishiogi-minami, Suginami City, Tokyo (2nd floor)
Distance from Station:
4 minutes of foot from JR Nishi-Ogikubo Station, south exit
Phone:
03-3247-6162
Open:
6:00pm – 10:00pm, Sat & Sun also open for lunch 12:00pm – 3:00pm, closed Mondays
Communication:
Filipino, English, Japanese
  • no-smoking