Representing Tokyo’s Rock Music Scene: The History of the Town of Koenji

Koenji is a town in the Suginami ward of Tokyo that has long been influencing and being influenced by a great deal of musicians. The punk rock band Hi-Standard who have enjoyed success overseas played their first show at Koenji’s 20,000 Volt, and “Koenji” has been mentioned in lyrics of some artists such as in “Night on the Galactic Railroad” by Ging Nang Boyz.

In the 1960s, Koenji was known for its many “rock kissa”—rock music cafes and bars—with places such as “Movin’” and “Keyboard” as notables. In those days these “rock kissa” thrived by providing a place for music fans to get together and listen obsessively to the latest overseas imports of The Beatles or The Rolling Stones and the like.

In the 1970s, Kousetusu Minami of the folk band Kaguyahime, as well as legendary folk singer, Takuro Yoshida, began living in Koenji. Takuro Yoshida even had a song titled “Koenji”. Around 1980, Michiro Endo of the punk band The Stalin also started living in Koenji, and at that point it simply became natural for rock fans and musicians to have a presence in the area.

In addition to these people, there were also many important places. Live music venues (known as “Live Houses” in Japan) such as Jirokichi, Inaoiza, Show Boat, and 20,000 Volt (currently known as “Niman Denatsu” (二万電圧) after relocating to Higashi-Koenji) opened in Koenji, and at the same time the area saw a rapid increase in the amount of used and vintage clothing shops, further giving rise to the unity of diverse fashion and music that is the subculture of Koenji.

The Koenji Music Map “World’s End Garden”

In this music town of Koenji, Mr. Yoshikiyo Shiraishi (“Shiraishi-san” in the following), manager of Sound Studio Dom (established 1994), has long been a trusted member of the musical community, integral in providing a practice space for many musicians over the years. Sound Studio Dom has become known as the home studio for such Koenji notables as the hardcore punk band Tetsu Arei, rapper Shinpei, and is used by the alternative rock band Gezan, among others. Additionally, the studio hosts numerous music events, and in October 2022 opened its own music bar in its “C Studio,” so that people can enjoy not only live music but also relive the days of the “rock kissa” at Studio Dom.

Shiraishi-san has put together a music map of Koenji’s various locations though a social project he operates titled “World’s End Garden.”

(Left) Sound Studio Dom & World’s End Garden manager, Yoshikiyo Shiraishi
(Right) Writer, Tsuyoshi Shigeta

In the current version, as many of 62 recommended music-related locations (bars and clubs, etc.) are shown on the map. English is also included for overseas visitors to be able to navigate the vast musical sea of Koenji. The Japanese motif design with a collage of Mt. Fuji on the cover also makes this stylish map worthy of a souvenir to take home and remember your music outing (or plan a future one).

As a special treat for Experience Suginami Tokyo readers, Shiraishi-san, who has become a pro in terms of knowing where to find fun music spots in Koenji, guides us around some of his favorites. “The best kind of day is one where you can encounter good music,” he explains, and it’s exciting to see what kind of places he’ll introduce. Let’s walk the streets of Koenji with him and find out.

First, Pick Up a Koenji Music Map at Koenji Station

In addition to the racks inside JR Koenji Station, you can also get copies of the World’s End Garden music map at the racks in front of the entrance to Sound Studio Dom, located in the covered shopping area, Pal Street, about a 2-minute walk (130m) from Koenji Station. Furthermore, there is a web version available as well: https://worldsendgarden.com/ (external link).

The Koenji Music Map “World’s End Garden” is available at the brochure rack inside Koenji Station and also in front of Sound Studio Dom.

Without further ado, below we introduce 5 of Shiraishi-san’s recommended music establishments in Koenji.