SUGINAMI THROUGH THE SEASONS (New! 2/25)

Enjoy the Four Seasons in Four Areas of Suginami, Tokyo
[published February 2025]

Suginami is an area in west Tokyo that is known for many things such as the Japanese animation industry, subculture, ramen, vintage clothing and antiques, as well as its music, art and events. However, another thing that really sets Suginami apart is its “best-of-both-worlds” mix of city and nature, where parks and other areas give a taste of all of the seasons in Tokyo throughout the year.

Here, we’ve chosen to highlight each of the four main areas of Suginami along the JR Chuo train line in Tokyo, while also highlighting the four seasons. We hope you enjoy this guide and exploring these areas in these seasons. Below are just our recommendations, but feel free to venture to these areas in any season, or discover your own great places to enjoy the seasons in Tokyo!

1. Spring in Asagaya
2. Summer in Nishi-Ogikubo
3. Autumn in Ogikubo
4. Winter in Koenji

Spring in Asagaya: Zenpukuji-gawa Green Park

Spring throughout Japan is all about cherry blossoms (sakura) and Suginami in Tokyo is no exception. Asagaya is an area in Suginami that has some small pockets of greenery including cherry trees near the town centre, mostly in shrine grounds, but for larger and more diverse nature why don’t you head south to Zenpukuji-gawa Green Park and the connected Wadabori Park along the Zenpukuji-gawa River? During cherry blossom season this area offers one of the best sakura spots west of the Yamanote Line in Tokyo and it is noticeably less crowded than the more famous tourist attractions, such as Ueno Park or Shinjuku Gyoen National Garden. The Green Park is an 8-minute walk from Tokyo Metro Minami-Asagaya Station and there are buses from JR Asagaya Station.

This is the same river that starts from Zenpukuji Park and meanders through the busy area of north Nishi-Ogikubo and then Ogikubo before running through the centre of this large green area, with room for some 400 cherry trees along its banks.

Drone footage of the expanse of cherry trees along the Zenpukuji-gawa River.

On the river itself you may see or hear herons, egrets, cormorants, wagtails as well as the amazing kingfishers. Not forgetting the ducks of course, as in spring you may well see parent ducks surrounded by several baby ducklings. Hawks have also been known to nest in the tall trees, and you’ll often see photography enthusiasts staking them out.

Apart from the river there are plenty of open green areas and places to picnic under the trees. Even if the blossoms have dropped, the fresh bright green leaves make a refreshing canopy. Spring can still be quite cold and damp so be prepared if you are planning Ohanami (お花見 : cherry blossom viewing).

There are also some great shrines in Asagaya to enjoy the seasons in a tranquil setting. Ohmiya Hachimangu Shrine, adjacent to Wadabori Park, is the third biggest Shinto shrine in Tokyo and is a very green area with an ancient linden tree, a bamboo grove, tall pines and some cherry blossoms that are also quite lovely this time of year among the traditional atmosphere.

Price:

FREE (¥100 by Sugimaru Bus from Asagaya Station)
Address:
1 Chome-30-27 Naritanishi, Suginami City, Tokyo
Distance from Station:
8 minute walk from Tokyo Metro Minami-Asagaya Station, Bus from JR Asagaya Station

Summer in Nishi-Ogikubo: Zenpukuji Park

Zenpukuji Park, a delightful nature spot in the quiet suburban area some 20-minute walk north of Nishi-Ogikubo Station is a good place to spend a summer’s day. There are buses available from Nishi-Ogikubo or Ogikubo, but if you like a walk then it is good to start by going along Zenpukuji River, not far from the station. The river meanders through the town and you may spot various water birds amongst the reeds and white egrets often glide along just above the water.

The river leads into the pond at the southern end of the park. Surrounded by very tall conifers as well as various deciduous trees, reed beds and a large expanse of water lilies (mostly red but some white), this is an idyllic sight.

This park is the spiritual home of birdwatching in Japan as in 1934, Mr. Nakanishi Godo, who lived nearby and was called Japan’s “father of wild birds,” engaged in wild bird observation and protection work here, leading to the establishment of the organization Wild Bird Society of Japan. The park has developed over the years and is still a very popular spot for birds and ornithologists alike. Kingfishers are probably the favorite resident birds, but there are also Mejiro (warbling white-eye), wagtails, grey and night herons, cormorants, and of course ducks. Also an occasional hawk or evening owl and migratory birds can be seen just stopping off briefly. See also our bird-watching walk at Zenpukuji Park.

A kingfisher perched at the lower pond.

The northern half of the park also has a large pond, where rowing boats and pedalos (pedal boats) are available for hire during weekends and public holidays during the warm seasons, affording excellent alternative views of the flora and fauna. There is a wide variety of flowering shrubs and trees in this park including a range of hydrangea which are looking their best in July.

If you visit on or just before 7th July you will see a Tanabata (star festival) tree, a Japanese traditional bamboo structure that people decorate with wishes on colorful strips of paper.

A tree decorated for Tanabata.

Price:

Rowboat 30 minutes ¥500, pedal boat 30 minutes ¥700
Address:
3 Chome-9-10 Zenpukuji, Suginami City, Tokyo
Distance from Station:
20 minutes on foot from JR Nishi-Ogikubo Station (buses also available)
Open:
Boat rental operating weekends and public holidays from mid-March until early November, 9:00am - 5:00pm (ticket booth closes at 4:30pm)
Website:
http://www.tokyo-park.or.jp/park/format/index010.html (external link)


Autumn in Ogikubo: Otaguro Park

As spring is all about cherry blossoms, the autumn scenery is dominated by the amazing colored-tree foliage, and Otaguro Park in the Ogikubo area of Suginami is definitely one of the best places to admire this natural phenomenon. The park is a small but beautiful Japanese style garden, 8 minutes’ walk from Ogikubo Station. The site was originally the home and gardens of the famous Japanese music critic, Mr. Moto’o Otaguro, and his favorite piano is in the commemorative building there.

The long, straight path from the entrance is lined with large gingko trees which have beautiful golden leaves at this time of year.

The lit-up entrance at Otaguro Park.

The mix of the evergreen pines and red or gold maple leaves demands a lengthy contemplation, with the gazebo in the far corner at the edge of the pond being an ideal viewing spot. From here you can also admire the many koi fish of various colors.

As you would expect, the garden is kept very neat and tidy. There is a picturesque little stone bridge over the pond. There are also cherry trees and other varieties which attract birds and insects— autumn is a good time to see the red dragonflies hovering above the water.

Illuminated colorful trees reflecting on the pond.

For a short period around late November / early December (usually from the last weekend of November until the first weekend in December), the park is illuminated in the evenings and is well worth seeing. The fall foliage looking more radiant and the paths subtly lit makes a stunning picture. You will need to check the dates and times before visiting, and there is also a small charge for the illuminated evenings. The colorful and natural illumination attracts quite a crowd, so be aware. Tripods are forbidden but photography is allowed, so it’s a good chance to practice your steady hand.

Price:

Fall foliage illumination: ¥300 entry (¥100 for children up to age 15)
Address:
3 Chome-33-12 Ogikubo, Suginami City, Tokyo
Distance from Station:
8 minutes from JR/Tokyo Metro Ogikubo Station
Open:
Daily 9:00am - 4:30pm (enter by 4:00pm) Fall Foliage Illumination: Mon-Thu 5:00pm - 8:00pm (enter by 7:45pm), Fri-Sun 5:00pm - 9:00pm (enter by 8:30pm)

Winter in Koenji: Koenji Station Square, Parks and Shrines

One surprising thing about Tokyo in the winter is that almost every day is sunny with clear blue skies, where you can expect at least cloudy days or rain for part of the week in other seasons. There may be one or two days of snow, but Tokyo actually has more sunshine hours than Okinawa in winter. Winter in Tokyo is also the best time to see the distant snow-capped Mt. Fuji from parts of the Chuo railway line, station platforms and other elevated areas in Tokyo.

Coincidentally, Koenji has been historically a center for both scientific and spiritual meteorology as it is home to the only weather shrine in Japan, located close to Koenji JR Station and Mabashi Park (12-minute walk from the station) was formerly the location of the Japanese Meteorological Agency’s institution. Despite lower temperatures, many consider winter to be the best time to take long walks in the clear, fresh air. Mabashi Park even has an area called Blue Sky Square (青空広場) where you can fully appreciate the big blue sky.

Tokyo mild winter at Mabashi Park.

A good place to start the day is by visiting Koenji Hikawa Shrine (1-minute walk from Koenji Station) to thank the weather gods and pray for calm weather ahead. The actual Kisho Jinja (weather shrine) is to the left of the main shrine along a narrow path. This shrine was featured in the animated film “Weathering With You” (2019, directed by Makoto Shinkai). Here you can see many geta ema (miniature wooden sandal-shaped tablets to write a wish on) and “teru teru mikuji” (fortune telling “teru teru bozu,” or cloth dolls made as a wish for sunshine). You can purchase these from the area to the right of the main shrine.

Teru teru bozu dolls at Koenji Hikawa Shrine.

Koenji is famous for its music and nightclub scene so as the sun sets early it’s worth spending time in the lively area around the station. Although Christmas is not an officially celebrated holiday in Japan, the Japanese do love a good festival and excuse to decorate, so a lot of effort is put into creating a holiday atmosphere. At the square in front of Koenji Station’s south exit, trees are beautifully illuminated from early November all the way through to Valentine’s Day.

Looking up at Koenji's vibrant winter holiday illumination.

This is just a sample of how you can enjoy the natural areas that Suginami, Tokyo has to offer in any season. In addition to these more natural areas, each season also has its own variety of festivals. See our events page for more info.



writer: Ian Jackson
photographer: Minako Jackson

Price:

Entry is FREE
Address:
Mabashi Park: 4 Chome-35-5 Koenjikita, Suginami City, Tokyo

Koenji Hikawa Shrine: 4 Chome-44-19 Koenjiminami, Suginami City, Tokyo

Koenji Station South Square: 4 Chome-46 Koenjiminami, Suginami City, Tokyo
Distance from Station:
Mabashi Park: 12 minutes on foot from Koenji Station (North Exit)

Koenji Hikawa Shrine: 2 minutes on foot from Koenji Station (South Exit)

Koenji Station South Square: 1 minute on foot from Koenji Station (South Exit)